The Long March...

North Kaibab trail map (The Mystery Hiker on the right).

...otherwise known as the North Kaibab Trail. This was where the plan went awry. Here MG and Gregg had to make what we assumed at the time was possibly a life-or-death decision. OK, maybe that's reaching a bit, being a bit melodramatic. The plan for the day was to make the entire 14 mile hike from Phantom Ranch to the North Rim. This hike is comprised of a 7 mile trek with a modest gain in elevation from Phantom Ranch to Cottonwood campground and a second 7 mile stretch with a tremendous elevation gain from Cottonwood to the North Rim.

Our little adventure started at about 6:30am (which we later learned was far too late a start should we ever again be crazy enough to try this whole hike in one day.) We found out later that our uphill pace (Mary Gere's and mine) is about 1 mile per hour. That means we would climb out of the Canyon at about 8:30pm at the earliest. Can you see where this is going? We couldn't at 6:30am...

So, we hustled up the trail in order to beat the sun and get up to Cottonwood campground as quickly as we could. Don't get me wrong - for all the terrible warnings given us about "The Box", I found this stretch of the trail - the first 4 miles or so of the North Kaibab - to be absolutely awesome. We didn't stop for many pictures, but here are a few:

Bright Angel Creek

Random "Majestic Peak"

I think this is called Clement-Powell Butte. Heh,heh - there's a lot of "Buttes" in the Canyon.

One hour's march - break time for both teams

Now, throughout the trip we tried to find a way to take a photograph that would provide some visual cue about how high/far away/deep the Grand Canyon really is. Unfortunately, I think we failed. I took a vertical panorama series from the rest spot shown above that, when stitched together, was bigger than the Blogger uploader allows. The canyon is so steep, narrow, and tall here that there was no way with our regular little camera lens to show it all. I think that John may have some pictures that show the ridiculous scale we're talking about.

To get back to the suspenseful, life-and-death story though: While we were proud members of Team Thunder on the first day, it became obvious by the time we stumbled in to Cottonwood Campground,well behind the others, Mary Gere literally panting for breath, that we were going to have to choose another name. We could go with Team Last Thing You'll Ever Do, or at the suggestion of our faithful leader, Team Turn Back. Turn back! Turn back! It may be cliche, but the final decision was made by Mary Gere after John told her that "discretion is the better part of valor". Mary Gere is so well known for being discreet, of course, but she still realized the wisdom of his words and taking in to the consideration the look of panic on Gregg's (and everyone else's) face every time she said she really wanted to do it, she agreed to co-captain Team Turn Back. Turn back! Turn back!

Before the decision was even finalized, the newly christened Team Chapbuns (Austin & Andrew) headed to the North Rim, with the news that Mary Gere was suffering and that Zach had a sprained ankle. Once Mary Gere recognized the wisdom of a tactical retreat, Team Thunder (John and, new team member, Zach) lit out as well. And finally, after a lengthy R&R at Cottonwood Campground (and a lovely chat with some athletic German girls who had done more in 3 hours then Mary Gere could conceive of getting done in a day) Team Turn Back (Turn back! Turn back!) turned back.

A few definitions for the initiate by MG

Running water: As in, "Is there running water in the Bright Angel Campground?" Definition: running water, as in "Yes, there is running water. It's called Bright Angel Creek." If you're looking for toilets that flush, they're a quarter mile away. The ones here require you to fill a bucket and quickly pour the bucket of water down the commode to "flush away" your bodily fluids. Anything more solid may require two buckets. Oh, and please be sure to leave a full bucket for the next serf.

Self-inflating: As in, "Our sleep mats are self-inflating." (Note: this must be said with a certain amount of superiority to a younger family member.) Definition: self-inflating, as in you must inflate this your self. What? Hunh? But? Oh, fine. Fortunately, Bridgers are known for their hot air and innovative sleeping arrangements.

This is Zach and Austin's outdoor version of the bunk bed.  It should be noted Austin is sleeping on a self-inflating mat...that he blew up himself.

Cool off: As in, "Does it cool off at night?" Definition: Well, this one is all relative, of course. It does cool off. 80 is much cooler than 105. The best way to actually cool off is to sit in the running water.

While a lot of work had been done by other hikers to create pools for soaking, Gregg felt the seating was lacking.

Family style meals: Well, this is exactly what you think, but it's special at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Everyone here is hot, tired, smelly and exhilarated. You make best friends you'll never see again (except as they're passing you on the way back up). Family style dinners actually led to a few new discoveries. For instance, once you've bathed, you realize how bad you must've smelled, because now you can smell everyone else, and it's baaaad. Also, there is no lemonade as refreshing as a Lemmy Lemonade at Phantom Ranch. This holds true for the coffee, as well, but not the chocolate cake, surprisingly.

It's fine: As in, "How's your ankle/rash/severed limb?" "It's fine." (Note: this must be asked by a concerned adult and answered by a young man in the 16 - 25 age range.) Definition: I'm in extreme pain, but far too manly to ask for my mommy. Mommy?

OWEE, OWEE, OWEE!