The Long March...

North Kaibab trail map (The Mystery Hiker on the right).

...otherwise known as the North Kaibab Trail. This was where the plan went awry. Here MG and Gregg had to make what we assumed at the time was possibly a life-or-death decision. OK, maybe that's reaching a bit, being a bit melodramatic. The plan for the day was to make the entire 14 mile hike from Phantom Ranch to the North Rim. This hike is comprised of a 7 mile trek with a modest gain in elevation from Phantom Ranch to Cottonwood campground and a second 7 mile stretch with a tremendous elevation gain from Cottonwood to the North Rim.

Our little adventure started at about 6:30am (which we later learned was far too late a start should we ever again be crazy enough to try this whole hike in one day.) We found out later that our uphill pace (Mary Gere's and mine) is about 1 mile per hour. That means we would climb out of the Canyon at about 8:30pm at the earliest. Can you see where this is going? We couldn't at 6:30am...

So, we hustled up the trail in order to beat the sun and get up to Cottonwood campground as quickly as we could. Don't get me wrong - for all the terrible warnings given us about "The Box", I found this stretch of the trail - the first 4 miles or so of the North Kaibab - to be absolutely awesome. We didn't stop for many pictures, but here are a few:

Bright Angel Creek

Random "Majestic Peak"

I think this is called Clement-Powell Butte. Heh,heh - there's a lot of "Buttes" in the Canyon.

One hour's march - break time for both teams

Now, throughout the trip we tried to find a way to take a photograph that would provide some visual cue about how high/far away/deep the Grand Canyon really is. Unfortunately, I think we failed. I took a vertical panorama series from the rest spot shown above that, when stitched together, was bigger than the Blogger uploader allows. The canyon is so steep, narrow, and tall here that there was no way with our regular little camera lens to show it all. I think that John may have some pictures that show the ridiculous scale we're talking about.

To get back to the suspenseful, life-and-death story though: While we were proud members of Team Thunder on the first day, it became obvious by the time we stumbled in to Cottonwood Campground,well behind the others, Mary Gere literally panting for breath, that we were going to have to choose another name. We could go with Team Last Thing You'll Ever Do, or at the suggestion of our faithful leader, Team Turn Back. Turn back! Turn back! It may be cliche, but the final decision was made by Mary Gere after John told her that "discretion is the better part of valor". Mary Gere is so well known for being discreet, of course, but she still realized the wisdom of his words and taking in to the consideration the look of panic on Gregg's (and everyone else's) face every time she said she really wanted to do it, she agreed to co-captain Team Turn Back. Turn back! Turn back!

Before the decision was even finalized, the newly christened Team Chapbuns (Austin & Andrew) headed to the North Rim, with the news that Mary Gere was suffering and that Zach had a sprained ankle. Once Mary Gere recognized the wisdom of a tactical retreat, Team Thunder (John and, new team member, Zach) lit out as well. And finally, after a lengthy R&R at Cottonwood Campground (and a lovely chat with some athletic German girls who had done more in 3 hours then Mary Gere could conceive of getting done in a day) Team Turn Back (Turn back! Turn back!) turned back.

A few definitions for the initiate by MG

Running water: As in, "Is there running water in the Bright Angel Campground?" Definition: running water, as in "Yes, there is running water. It's called Bright Angel Creek." If you're looking for toilets that flush, they're a quarter mile away. The ones here require you to fill a bucket and quickly pour the bucket of water down the commode to "flush away" your bodily fluids. Anything more solid may require two buckets. Oh, and please be sure to leave a full bucket for the next serf.

Self-inflating: As in, "Our sleep mats are self-inflating." (Note: this must be said with a certain amount of superiority to a younger family member.) Definition: self-inflating, as in you must inflate this your self. What? Hunh? But? Oh, fine. Fortunately, Bridgers are known for their hot air and innovative sleeping arrangements.

This is Zach and Austin's outdoor version of the bunk bed.  It should be noted Austin is sleeping on a self-inflating mat...that he blew up himself.

Cool off: As in, "Does it cool off at night?" Definition: Well, this one is all relative, of course. It does cool off. 80 is much cooler than 105. The best way to actually cool off is to sit in the running water.

While a lot of work had been done by other hikers to create pools for soaking, Gregg felt the seating was lacking.

Family style meals: Well, this is exactly what you think, but it's special at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Everyone here is hot, tired, smelly and exhilarated. You make best friends you'll never see again (except as they're passing you on the way back up). Family style dinners actually led to a few new discoveries. For instance, once you've bathed, you realize how bad you must've smelled, because now you can smell everyone else, and it's baaaad. Also, there is no lemonade as refreshing as a Lemmy Lemonade at Phantom Ranch. This holds true for the coffee, as well, but not the chocolate cake, surprisingly.

It's fine: As in, "How's your ankle/rash/severed limb?" "It's fine." (Note: this must be asked by a concerned adult and answered by a young man in the 16 - 25 age range.) Definition: I'm in extreme pain, but far too manly to ask for my mommy. Mommy?

OWEE, OWEE, OWEE!

Squirrels and knives - a tutorial

Should you consider a trip into the Grand Canyon, there is a certain amount of planning and preparation required.  I think Tenacious-MG and I would both recommend the experience though - we had a WONDERFUL time!.  One thing I was truly glad I practiced, however, was knife-fighting.  Yes, you read that right.  A quick course such as this will serve you well:

I would also recommend carrying some sort of substantial sheath knife, or at the very least a large folding knife.  Something like these will do:

This post is really about the brutal reality Team Lightning and Team Thunder faced at the bottom of the Canyon. I know what you are thinking.  What could possibly be so dangerous?  It is a National Park for crying out loud!  Roving packs of marauders?  C.H.U.D.?  Hippies trying to steal your granola?  Phantom Ranch staff who wake you up at 4 am even when you aren't due at breakfast until 6:30am?  Extremely aggressive trout?

Kaibab rattlers?  Scream-inducing (you know who you are!), but rare.

OOO - close, but no.

Actually, most people who are injured by wildlife in the Grand Canyon are injured by squirrels (TRUE - ask a ranger!).  Squirrels such as this one, the Kaibab Squirrel, seen here in an anti-squirrel propaganda poster:

  Oh, I know, you think I am over-reacting.  But only a person who has never stared down a Kaibab squirrel would think that.  I mean look at this one:

He's not THREE FEET from John's tent!  Ready to pounce on any stray bit of trail mix.  Turn your back on one of these cheeky devils and your snacks will be gone in the blink of an eye!  How did this happen?  Too many reckless tourists handing little treats to these masters of cute con-artistry to coax them into mugging for the camera.  Which brings us back around to knife-fighting.

You see as it turns out, squirrels are completely inept at wielding knives.  In fact, their lack of opposable thumbs has left them them among the weakest in the animal kingdom in knife-related combat.  They are so terrified at the sight of a knife, they flee in terror.

The lesson here is preparation and vigilance...and not feeding the squirrels.  If you come to the Canyon comfortable with handling a knife and remain on your guard throughout your trip, you will have as wonderful a time as we did.  Keep your knife at the ready.  Often, it requires only a flash of steel to scatter the Canyon's "Plunderers of Snacks".

I hope that this post doesn't dissuade anyone from a trip into the Grand Canyon.  The likelihood that you will ever have to engage in combat with a squirrel is slim if you adequately prepare and follow the simple rules I have laid out here.  Your reward will be a greater appreciation of our national park system and the truly amazing natural beauty that they preserve.

The Descent...dun, dun, DUNNNNNN!

Team Lightning took off down the South Kaibab trail...well...rather like lightning.  The tiny little figures in this picture represent the closest Team Thunder was to them for pretty much the rest of the trip down to the river.

Tiny specks named Austin, Zach, and Andrew

Traveling with the 3-person Team Thunder was rather like traveling with three tour guides.  In other words, we were easily distracted.  "Oh look at these flowers!"  "Over here is a very interesting rock formation."  "Hey, this is a great place for a photo - smile!"

Oneill Butte...heh, heh, "Butte"

Team THUNDER!!!!!!!

OOO!  Pretty!

Keep in mind that at the South Kaibab trailhead the elevation is right around 7,200 feet.  Phantom Ranch is at a measly 2,500 feet.  So over the course of the next 7 miles, our teams descended about 4,700 feet.  Plus, since we were hiking in July it was a good thing that we started early in the morning because it gets hotter and hotter the farther down you go into the canyon.  Why do I mention this?  Mostly to make excuses why the old people took 5 hours to get to the bottom while the young people made it in 3 and a half.  OK, so we did see Team Lightning up close at a rest stop where they had been lounging for quite some time waiting for us.

Team Lightning waiting for the old folks

"Jeeves, where is my tea?"

"Good Lord!  There's a river at the bottom of this thing!"

So huge, it is almost unbelievable!

 

Despite the sign, we didn't see any.

That teeny-tiny patch of trees?  The campground

The tunnel...at the end of the light?

 

 

 

 

Bliss!  Bright Angel creek and campground!

The Black Bridge! (complete with mule crap.)

Arrival - Yes, we're "there"

On July 4th after an incredibly early flight and a drive from Phoenix through Flagstaff and on to the south rim of the Grand Canyon, we arrived at Maswick Lodge late in the day.

This was to be our base of operations throughout the trip in the sense that we would sleep there the night before trekking and the night before our return flight.  One room also served as a place to stow gear while we were hiking.

We were pretty tired upon arrival, but we had to organize the snacks we had purchased during our stop in Flagstaff.  Plus we had to pack our backpacks to be ready for a shuttle ride the next morning that would take us to the South Kaibab trail head.

The South Kaibab is a fairly steep trail with potable water at the trail head and ... well ...no where else until you arrive at Bright Angel Campground at the very bottom of the canyon.

Here's the start of the journey:

Austin demonstrating his training technique

At the South Kaibab Trail head

Yes it is that hazy, but what a view!

Are we there yet?

It is nearly time for the first leg of our first ever trip into the Grand Canyon.  We have been preparing for several months now climbing stairs, carrying packs, hiking, and getting used to the heat.  The last part has been easy since it has seemed unnaturally hot for a June in Kansas.

NWS says that the South Rim temp will be 81 for a high on Tuesday, 78 on the North Rim and a toasty 101 at the Colorado River.  Considering that the current temp here at home is 105, we may be OK.

Here is a map of the first and fourth legs of the journey.  We will descend the South Kaibab and ascend the Bright Angel on the way back.  Days 2 and 3 will be spent on the North Kaibab.