Bright, Bright Angel, pt 1

After a night of ...did we mention earthquakes?  Yes, I think we did.  But AFTER the earthquake and then a night of rest, Team Bridger moved out from Phantom Ranch at 6:30am with the goal of...

MAKING IT OUT ALIVE!!!!11!1!!!!!

Actually, we were pretty sure we wouldn't die, but it was a 9 mile hike with about 1 mile of elevation gain.  Here's why it is recommended that you prepare:

Let's see...What does that say after  "STOP"?  Avoid uphill hiking between 10am-4pm May through September?  Total fail on that one.  OK, so reading the rest of it, we actually did exactly what they recommend for the rest of the warning sign.  Bear in mind that the sign seen here was at the south rim, not the bottom, so we really didn't know any of that until later.  Well, we actually did know we needed to be prepared thanks to John and also the Park Service website (we are librarians after all).


Back to the story.  So we set out at 6:30am and crossed the Silver Bridge:

And promptly encountered more of that pesky beautiful scenery.  I took a few more pictures on this leg simply because there was so much to gawk at, you just had to stop!  Once across the bridge, the trail runs along the Colorado River for a couple of miles.  During that time we passed through several types of terrain.

The mighty Colorado - its hard to get a feel for how gigantic it is.

Box canyon along the trail

Sand Dunes!

This is the stage where we learned that the worst type of terrain to hike through while carrying a full pack is...loose sand.  It was pretty though, and Donna got the beach vacation she had been wanting!  After the stretch along the sand you get to the landing area where rafting tours meet the Bright Angel.  I was finally able to get a picture that provided a little perspective as we rounded a bend approaching the landing.

8-man rafts

Like a cork

We arrived at the stop on the trail that marked the start of the ascent to the South Rim.

Preparing for the ascent

Hidden rest stop by the brook

From this point, there is nothing in the way of rest areas or water until you arrive at Indian Garden.  In between is a place called "the Devil's Corkscrew".  Nice.

And...she's off!

Off the frickin' "rugged" charts

So, apparently I didn't actually get any pictures of the Devil's Corkscrew and that's probably for the best.  Lends a little mystery, don't you think?

The scenery along this stretch went from one amazing scene to another.  As you approach Indian Garden, the familiar Grand Canyon views change to this...this...set from a sci-fi movie:

Wha???

The trail to the Garden

After a tour through what could only be described as a Hollywood set for a Clint Eastwood movie, you come to a place called Indian Garden.  Hallalujah!

Hooray!  Water and rest!

Thanks, Park Service!

Of course, our respite was not without trial.  If one thinks that the squirrels of Phantom Ranch are a challenge one has underestimated the cunning nature of the Kaibab squirrel...

Stay tuned for the exciting conclusion to this story in the upcoming cleverly titled episode, "Bright, bright Angel, pt. 2"

Life at the bottom...

Since MG and I ended our long march on a positive uptick, we spent the next day resting and letting our feet recuperate.  So, we spent the day soaking our feet in the lovely Bright Angel Creek and wandering around looking at all the natural beauty.  There is plenty of it - nevermind the squirrels - and you really can't help but practically fall over photo opportunities.

The perfect rock for a seat

Prickly pears with blooms

Random park bench view

Same bench

No polarizer

Ran out of color completely

So we also spent a good deal of time just walking about and taking pictures.  I had wanted a better camera than our little Canon, so I spent a good deal of time before the trip researching.  It had to have a mix of features, expandability and most importantly, lightness for this trip.  Besides Vasque hiking boots, I would offer a plug for Olympus cameras.  Here's the camera we took with us:

Ours is silver - couldn't find a pic of that one

It's an Olympus epl-2 and I have to say that I like it better than any camera I've ever owned.  Now, bear in mind that unlike MG, I've owned very few cameras, have never had a photography lesson, and really am not very good at taking anything other than snapshots.  I took a little more care here since we had the time and spent a little more time playing around with our new camera's settings.

Tactical Retreat

The return hike back down to Phantom Ranch was fraught with uncertainty.  Was MG too fatigued to make another 7 mile hike?  Would there be campground space?  Was it possible that the afternoon heat would be too much for both of us?

So, we paced ourselves and hoped for the best.  Unfortunately, for the first 3 miles or so, the July sun beat down on us relentlessly and we made very poor time, stopping at every bit of shade and cursing the trail designers for not placing those upper 3 miles of path closer to Bright Angel Creek like it is (by necessity) in the box canyon portion.

Bright Angel Creek in the box canyon

Phantom Canyon on the North Kaibab

But we started to catch a series of good breaks as we entered "the box".  The good thing about hiking in July is that the monsoon season is underway - which means clouds.  As it clouded up, our spirits (and pace) picked up.  We started to think that maybe we'd make it back to Phantom before dark.

AND WE DID!

Ah!  A cabin - so near, yet so far!

So we stumbled back in to Phantom Ranch with 14 miles on our feet for the day.  So we walked staggered up to the canteen window (it was closed for dinner prep when we arrived) and the conversation went like this:

ME:  "We planned to hike to the north rim today, but could only make Cottonwood Campground.  The other part of our group had the back country pass so...what are our options."

WONDERFUL Xanterra person: "Well, do you want beds?"

We made it!, but what now?

ME:  <stunned into silence>  "Uh, sure!  You mean with like showers and AC?"

WXP:  "There were lots of cancellations for the dorms today - pouring rain on the south rim.  We should have dorm space for both of you."

ME:  "Heck yes!"

WXP:  "What about dinner?"

ME:  "TWO of them?"

WXP:  "Yes?"

So that evening, we had everything we'd hoped for if we'd climbed out of the canyon.  We had beds, dinner, AC, showers, and we weren't dead.

The Long March...

North Kaibab trail map (The Mystery Hiker on the right).

...otherwise known as the North Kaibab Trail. This was where the plan went awry. Here MG and Gregg had to make what we assumed at the time was possibly a life-or-death decision. OK, maybe that's reaching a bit, being a bit melodramatic. The plan for the day was to make the entire 14 mile hike from Phantom Ranch to the North Rim. This hike is comprised of a 7 mile trek with a modest gain in elevation from Phantom Ranch to Cottonwood campground and a second 7 mile stretch with a tremendous elevation gain from Cottonwood to the North Rim.

Our little adventure started at about 6:30am (which we later learned was far too late a start should we ever again be crazy enough to try this whole hike in one day.) We found out later that our uphill pace (Mary Gere's and mine) is about 1 mile per hour. That means we would climb out of the Canyon at about 8:30pm at the earliest. Can you see where this is going? We couldn't at 6:30am...

So, we hustled up the trail in order to beat the sun and get up to Cottonwood campground as quickly as we could. Don't get me wrong - for all the terrible warnings given us about "The Box", I found this stretch of the trail - the first 4 miles or so of the North Kaibab - to be absolutely awesome. We didn't stop for many pictures, but here are a few:

Bright Angel Creek

Random "Majestic Peak"

I think this is called Clement-Powell Butte. Heh,heh - there's a lot of "Buttes" in the Canyon.

One hour's march - break time for both teams

Now, throughout the trip we tried to find a way to take a photograph that would provide some visual cue about how high/far away/deep the Grand Canyon really is. Unfortunately, I think we failed. I took a vertical panorama series from the rest spot shown above that, when stitched together, was bigger than the Blogger uploader allows. The canyon is so steep, narrow, and tall here that there was no way with our regular little camera lens to show it all. I think that John may have some pictures that show the ridiculous scale we're talking about.

To get back to the suspenseful, life-and-death story though: While we were proud members of Team Thunder on the first day, it became obvious by the time we stumbled in to Cottonwood Campground,well behind the others, Mary Gere literally panting for breath, that we were going to have to choose another name. We could go with Team Last Thing You'll Ever Do, or at the suggestion of our faithful leader, Team Turn Back. Turn back! Turn back! It may be cliche, but the final decision was made by Mary Gere after John told her that "discretion is the better part of valor". Mary Gere is so well known for being discreet, of course, but she still realized the wisdom of his words and taking in to the consideration the look of panic on Gregg's (and everyone else's) face every time she said she really wanted to do it, she agreed to co-captain Team Turn Back. Turn back! Turn back!

Before the decision was even finalized, the newly christened Team Chapbuns (Austin & Andrew) headed to the North Rim, with the news that Mary Gere was suffering and that Zach had a sprained ankle. Once Mary Gere recognized the wisdom of a tactical retreat, Team Thunder (John and, new team member, Zach) lit out as well. And finally, after a lengthy R&R at Cottonwood Campground (and a lovely chat with some athletic German girls who had done more in 3 hours then Mary Gere could conceive of getting done in a day) Team Turn Back (Turn back! Turn back!) turned back.

A few definitions for the initiate by MG

Running water: As in, "Is there running water in the Bright Angel Campground?" Definition: running water, as in "Yes, there is running water. It's called Bright Angel Creek." If you're looking for toilets that flush, they're a quarter mile away. The ones here require you to fill a bucket and quickly pour the bucket of water down the commode to "flush away" your bodily fluids. Anything more solid may require two buckets. Oh, and please be sure to leave a full bucket for the next serf.

Self-inflating: As in, "Our sleep mats are self-inflating." (Note: this must be said with a certain amount of superiority to a younger family member.) Definition: self-inflating, as in you must inflate this your self. What? Hunh? But? Oh, fine. Fortunately, Bridgers are known for their hot air and innovative sleeping arrangements.

This is Zach and Austin's outdoor version of the bunk bed.  It should be noted Austin is sleeping on a self-inflating mat...that he blew up himself.

Cool off: As in, "Does it cool off at night?" Definition: Well, this one is all relative, of course. It does cool off. 80 is much cooler than 105. The best way to actually cool off is to sit in the running water.

While a lot of work had been done by other hikers to create pools for soaking, Gregg felt the seating was lacking.

Family style meals: Well, this is exactly what you think, but it's special at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Everyone here is hot, tired, smelly and exhilarated. You make best friends you'll never see again (except as they're passing you on the way back up). Family style dinners actually led to a few new discoveries. For instance, once you've bathed, you realize how bad you must've smelled, because now you can smell everyone else, and it's baaaad. Also, there is no lemonade as refreshing as a Lemmy Lemonade at Phantom Ranch. This holds true for the coffee, as well, but not the chocolate cake, surprisingly.

It's fine: As in, "How's your ankle/rash/severed limb?" "It's fine." (Note: this must be asked by a concerned adult and answered by a young man in the 16 - 25 age range.) Definition: I'm in extreme pain, but far too manly to ask for my mommy. Mommy?

OWEE, OWEE, OWEE!

Squirrels and knives - a tutorial

Should you consider a trip into the Grand Canyon, there is a certain amount of planning and preparation required.  I think Tenacious-MG and I would both recommend the experience though - we had a WONDERFUL time!.  One thing I was truly glad I practiced, however, was knife-fighting.  Yes, you read that right.  A quick course such as this will serve you well:

I would also recommend carrying some sort of substantial sheath knife, or at the very least a large folding knife.  Something like these will do:

This post is really about the brutal reality Team Lightning and Team Thunder faced at the bottom of the Canyon. I know what you are thinking.  What could possibly be so dangerous?  It is a National Park for crying out loud!  Roving packs of marauders?  C.H.U.D.?  Hippies trying to steal your granola?  Phantom Ranch staff who wake you up at 4 am even when you aren't due at breakfast until 6:30am?  Extremely aggressive trout?

Kaibab rattlers?  Scream-inducing (you know who you are!), but rare.

OOO - close, but no.

Actually, most people who are injured by wildlife in the Grand Canyon are injured by squirrels (TRUE - ask a ranger!).  Squirrels such as this one, the Kaibab Squirrel, seen here in an anti-squirrel propaganda poster:

  Oh, I know, you think I am over-reacting.  But only a person who has never stared down a Kaibab squirrel would think that.  I mean look at this one:

He's not THREE FEET from John's tent!  Ready to pounce on any stray bit of trail mix.  Turn your back on one of these cheeky devils and your snacks will be gone in the blink of an eye!  How did this happen?  Too many reckless tourists handing little treats to these masters of cute con-artistry to coax them into mugging for the camera.  Which brings us back around to knife-fighting.

You see as it turns out, squirrels are completely inept at wielding knives.  In fact, their lack of opposable thumbs has left them them among the weakest in the animal kingdom in knife-related combat.  They are so terrified at the sight of a knife, they flee in terror.

The lesson here is preparation and vigilance...and not feeding the squirrels.  If you come to the Canyon comfortable with handling a knife and remain on your guard throughout your trip, you will have as wonderful a time as we did.  Keep your knife at the ready.  Often, it requires only a flash of steel to scatter the Canyon's "Plunderers of Snacks".

I hope that this post doesn't dissuade anyone from a trip into the Grand Canyon.  The likelihood that you will ever have to engage in combat with a squirrel is slim if you adequately prepare and follow the simple rules I have laid out here.  Your reward will be a greater appreciation of our national park system and the truly amazing natural beauty that they preserve.

The Descent...dun, dun, DUNNNNNN!

Team Lightning took off down the South Kaibab trail...well...rather like lightning.  The tiny little figures in this picture represent the closest Team Thunder was to them for pretty much the rest of the trip down to the river.

Tiny specks named Austin, Zach, and Andrew

Traveling with the 3-person Team Thunder was rather like traveling with three tour guides.  In other words, we were easily distracted.  "Oh look at these flowers!"  "Over here is a very interesting rock formation."  "Hey, this is a great place for a photo - smile!"

Oneill Butte...heh, heh, "Butte"

Team THUNDER!!!!!!!

OOO!  Pretty!

Keep in mind that at the South Kaibab trailhead the elevation is right around 7,200 feet.  Phantom Ranch is at a measly 2,500 feet.  So over the course of the next 7 miles, our teams descended about 4,700 feet.  Plus, since we were hiking in July it was a good thing that we started early in the morning because it gets hotter and hotter the farther down you go into the canyon.  Why do I mention this?  Mostly to make excuses why the old people took 5 hours to get to the bottom while the young people made it in 3 and a half.  OK, so we did see Team Lightning up close at a rest stop where they had been lounging for quite some time waiting for us.

Team Lightning waiting for the old folks

"Jeeves, where is my tea?"

"Good Lord!  There's a river at the bottom of this thing!"

So huge, it is almost unbelievable!

 

Despite the sign, we didn't see any.

That teeny-tiny patch of trees?  The campground

The tunnel...at the end of the light?

 

 

 

 

Bliss!  Bright Angel creek and campground!

The Black Bridge! (complete with mule crap.)