The return hike back down to Phantom Ranch was fraught with uncertainty. Was MG too fatigued to make another 7 mile hike? Would there be campground space? Was it possible that the afternoon heat would be too much for both of us?
So, we paced ourselves and hoped for the best. Unfortunately, for the first 3 miles or so, the July sun beat down on us relentlessly and we made very poor time, stopping at every bit of shade and cursing the trail designers for not placing those upper 3 miles of path closer to Bright Angel Creek like it is (by necessity) in the box canyon portion.
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Bright Angel Creek in the box canyon |
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Phantom Canyon on the North Kaibab |
But we started to catch a series of good breaks as we entered "the box". The good thing about hiking in July is that the monsoon season is underway - which means clouds. As it clouded up, our spirits (and pace) picked up. We started to think that maybe we'd make it back to Phantom before dark.
AND WE DID!
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Ah! A cabin - so near, yet so far! |
So we stumbled back in to Phantom Ranch with 14 miles on our feet for the day. So we walked
staggered up to the canteen window (it was closed for dinner prep when we arrived) and the conversation went like this:
ME: "We planned to hike to the north rim today, but could only make Cottonwood Campground. The other part of our group had the back country pass so...what are our options."
WONDERFUL Xanterra person: "Well, do you want beds?"
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We made it!, but what now? |
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ME: <stunned into silence> "Uh, sure! You mean with like showers and AC?"
WXP: "There were lots of cancellations for the dorms today - pouring rain on the south rim. We should have dorm space for both of you."
ME: "Heck yes!"
WXP: "What about dinner?"
ME: "TWO of them?"
WXP: "Yes?"
So that evening, we had everything we'd hoped for if we'd climbed out of the canyon. We had beds, dinner, AC, showers, and we weren't dead.